Business fashion: how a woman’s suit should fit + CHECKLIST ǀ Justine Leconte

Hi everyone! It’s Justine. How to know if
the piece of clothing that you’re trying on in a store fits as it should? how to
know what to pay attention to? it’s especially important if you’re trying on
a tailored garment because then the fabric is going to be woven (usually) so
it’s stiff, it’s not going to grow or become more comfortable over time.
you better know before you buy it if it fits properly, right? this video is the
first of a new series on my channel about fit: I will try on different types
of garments, tailored garments, and I will show you step by step which details you
need to pay attention to when you’re shopping: from afar, in full body, so you
see the full silhouette, and also closer up, so that you can see the details
better. and let’s start with the big question of all business wardrobes and
that is the suit: top and bottom. how to recognize a good suit that fits you? the tailored jacket: when you choose a
tailor jacket there are basically three things to pay
attention to: the shoulders, the waist and the side seam area, and then the space
that you have to move in that jacket overall. the shoulder seam should sit
right here, just before the shoulder starts to curve downwards, kind of. if the
seam looks like it’s more towards your neck, then the jacket is too small and
you need to go one size up, that’s a clear signal. if the shoulder is hanging
wider than your actual shoulders are, then go one size down. and this is true
even if you have shoulder pads: the shoulder seam position is not negotiable 😉
now let’s look at the shape of the jacket around the waist area. I’ve had
this jacket modified tailored to suit me better. that’s why the waist is pretty
marked, a bit like an hourglass. this is not a standard cut. but what’s important
is where the jacket sits under the armpits: you shouldn’t see a lot of
fabric here in the area, it must sit close enough to you, otherwise the jacket
was made for people wider than you in torso and taking the waist in lower will
not solve that fit issue here. one more thing about jackets when you’re trying
on a jacket in a store, always make sure to do the “cross your arms” test: cross
your arms. if the back of the jacket is pulling horizontally, then the jacket is
too tight. a fitting jacket should give you enough space to cross your arms and
still feel comfortable… bonus tip: if the jacket that you’re
looking at also has a lining, turn it around and look (inside) at that lining. it
should typically be more fabric, inside, than outside so that you can move inside
and move on the lining without pulling on that outer fabric. you can see that by
looking at the hem right here. I can make the lining move without the other fabric
moving. that will be one comfortable jacket.
the tailored trousers: in a suit, the bottom part is easier to fit. you only
need to look at the waistline, the rise and the hip level. I will explain. if we
are looking at woven pants, non stretchy, the waistband should not be tight. you
want it to sit naturally on your hips. if it sits too low, you will get a so-called
muffin top, because the fabric is stiffer than your belly. so it is your belly
that’s going to “pop out”. if the waistline is too high,
it will cut into your stomach when you sit and that’s not comfortable either.
there are more waistband options if you’re talking about casual wear or if
you’re looking at knitted fabrics. but if you’re talking, like here, about woven,
tailored trousers, they really aren’t a hundred ways to fit right: you should
really stay within the area of the natural waist for the pants to be really
comfortable. then let’s look at the rise that is the vertical seam in your center,
from the crotch to the top of the waistband. here is the front rise. if you
want your belly to be covered, make sure that the front rise is high enough. and
here’s the back rise: it also needs to fit your body so if you have a curvy
behind for instance, make sure that the back rise is high so that no one sees
your bum when you sit down. let’s come back to the front: to know if you have
the right size, look at the hip level. the fabric should not be pulling horizontally
sideways here. this is your widest point so that is where you see if the pants fit
you right. if you see horizontal lines, you need to go one size up. if the
size is right, the pants fall nicely, without pulling anywhere. and if the pants
have pockets, they are not pulling either. they should be lying flat against your
sides. the length of the pants itself is a matter of taste, not fit. I like mine to
be pretty long so I can wear the pants with high heels but it’s up to you 🙂
thumbs up if you found this video useful! thank you so much! now you know a little
bit better (I hope) what to pay attention to when you go shoe shopping. but it also
works for any type of blazer tailored trousers – trousers in general. next
episode: we’ll look at the tailored shirt for women, or blouse.
it might be the most difficult garment to fit in an entire wardrobe so
it needs a dedicated episode… and if until then you’re interested in fashion
and learning more about garments, you can subscribe to my channel. I do two videos
per week: about fashion. I also did previous videos on fashion quality and
handbag quality. if you want to watch those now I will link them here in the
corner as well as in the description below this video. I will see you soon
again and until then: happy shopping! happy fitting! 🙂 take care, bye bye!

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100 thoughts on “Business fashion: how a woman’s suit should fit + CHECKLIST ǀ Justine Leconte

  1. Hi everyone! When you go shopping, which garments do you find hard to fit right? I already planned a video about shirts (they are tough to choose!) but let me know what else you would like to hear about 🙂 Have a splendid Wednesday, see you Sunday!

  2. This is AMAZING! And wonderful, and very, very useful. And, also I love the music (20´s or so?). Thank you, Justine, for shering and for teach us how to have a more confortable life with the right suit <3 <3 <3 😀

  3. Justine, I recently bought a jacket (not a blazer or suit, but a suede moto jacket) that fits my shoulders just right, but I didn't know to do the arm-cross test. I just tried it and felt it pulling in the back. But I know that if I go one size up, the shoulders won't be as perfect. Which is more important?? It's still not too late to exchange it (or return it, if you say it's only worth buying a perfect fit).

  4. I love your videos, you explain things in a way that is easy to understand and pleasant to watch. I am just going to point out that, in this background is difficult to see the details of the garment, so maybe in the next video it could be more light😊

  5. Thank you, thank you, thank you. Now, if we could get women back to wearing a proper slip under their clothing, I'd be overjoyed. 🙂

  6. Great video, very usuful. PS fo some other time : I used to wear hanging earings like you do. But now I need to have glasses because of dioptre, so I think this is not possible anymore. Am I right? It seems like to much of something on my face …

  7. Any suggestions for the challenges I face? I am thin but have broader shoulders and longer arms than most jackets will fit. Also, I am longer in the torso than most. Makes for very difficult shopping. 🙁

  8. Great review of principles I learned 45 years ago in my sewing classes. Since few people sew anymore, this is a good lesson for the masses.👏

  9. Hi Justin, I love all of your videos. All the tips and advice you share is very helpful. I am trying to start my clothing store but I don’t know standard women’s clothing sizes. Would you please help me out with that. I would highly appreciate it! Thanks!!!

  10. Hi Justine! This is an off topic question. 🙂 I will be in France next week! 🙂 Will you recommend good shops that sell good clothes at reasonable prices? I will be in Paris, Aix en Provence, and Nice. Merci beaucoup!

  11. Thank you Justine for another informative video. It would have been more helpful if you were in a bright suit so we could better see the fitting.

  12. Thank you so much for posting this! I JUST bought a new suit and I've been wondering the whole time if it fits me properly– and then this video came out and helped me so much. It's really difficult to find fit guides for womens' suits (it's always just mens' suits), so I'm very glad I saw this!

  13. i am from India… and dont know why your sensibility is so Indian….. although you are so not Indian…. perhaps its your wisdom

  14. Hi Justine, This video is wonderul! I have a difficult time deciding if a garment fits properly.
    Are shoulder pads still in… should they fit? These fit videos are greatly appreciated.
    Thank you for your excellent explanation of fit.

  15. What about the length of the sleeve and jacket/ blazer?. I'm petite 10/ UK, and always struggled with finding a jacket that fits perfectly in those areas. Thanks for all your valuable tips. Shopping will never be the same.

  16. I need to wear a suit in a "serious" and conservativ surrounding often, so this video is very helpful. Btw, I really like the earrings! May I ask were you get them?

  17. Also for the jacket: if the armpits are too tight, you should not buy the jacket. I learned this the hard way. That is a complex area to sew and fit, where a lot of pieces come together, and it pretty much can’t be let out or taken in.

  18. Justine, tell me please, how to dress if i like to move my arms? but still want to look smart. 
    and also i run and walk fast, i cant wear heels everyday(

  19. I never find a good tailored jacket that fits me well. I have narrow shoulders and even the smallest size looks like I stole some clothes from my mother's wardrobe. 😣

  20. Your videos are incredible! I think I've watched every single one you've made. I do have one question: I always have a hard time finding suit trousers that fit well, due to the fact that my hips/thighs are much wider than my waist. Even if they are a more relaxed cut, the size that fits my waist is far too tight for my hips/thighs, and if it fits my hips/thighs, it is falling off my waist. Suit skirts can also be problematic for the same reason. What would you suggest in this circumstance?

  21. Thank you this might be the most useful video I ever watched about fashion and outfits on youtube 👍 thumbs up

  22. Thank you for this! I'm studying for a law degree and 4 years in, I'm still wondering why I look frumpy in a suit whereas everyone else look like they've just stepped out of a magazine.

  23. Thank you for this video, Justine!  There is a lot of information out there about how a men's suit should fit, but very little for women.  Can't wait for this whole series — you are such a wonderful educator!

  24. You are absolutely right. My father was a tailor and my mother too, and i have so many tailored jackets and trousers. Once you got used to that custom made clothes exclusively for your body, you cannot easily buy clothes, especially jackets.

  25. I have the hardest time finding pants with a high enough rise in the back. I have a very curvy bottom, so most pants do not cover me enough. And I am pear shaped, and plus-sized, which makes it all that much more difficult to find pants to fit me.

  26. My mother would say, if pants were too tight at the hips and had the horizontal folds, "those pants are smiling".

  27. Hi Justine, I love your wonderful tips and videos. I'm so much better in shopping for clothes, bags, shoes, etc. Thank you!

  28. Hi Justine, Nice video. Isn't the challenge for most women that the garment fits in one area nicely but not the other. For example the garment that fits well on the waist will not fit in the hip or inseam. What does one do if tailoring is not an option ?

  29. Thank you very nice. I was hoping to know about length of the leaves too, I never know if I got it right. Maybe in the future if you have time you could consider making a video update about jackets like this one, and also include a male model and explain how it should fit for males too. I try to help my brother, my nephews etc when we go shopping and when they ask me "does this look ok?" I'm not sure if it does in a professional way. I'm sure I'm not the only lady here that likes the man in her family to look as fashionable as her and sometimes we are just clueless how to help them too. 😏

  30. Hi..for tailored jacket, how much allowance to add on bust, waist and armhole for slimfit but somehow moveable that they can raise their arms?

  31. I'm saving all of these videos for when I finish law school so I don't have to put together a work wardrobe so cluelessly, thank you <3

  32. I got an amazing fabric and tailored it in a tailor near my home and everything got loose even though i did not ask a loose design. Now i wonder if she never sure about my body size although she measured me but the result always loose. I may be chubby but my clothes does not have to be loose at all. Is chubby girl forbidden to wear a fit (not tight) clothes?

  33. Justine – for those of us that are more busty but with little shoulders, what would you recommend if jackets shoulder seam falls correctly in one size but it cant be buttoned without pulling and the next size up the shoulder seams are falling off your shoulders but it actually closes? I'm always fighting between those 2 options when buying jackets. I usually go for fitting my bust and being able to close even if the shoulders are too big, but then I dont get as much wear out of them as I want. When I make my own clothes I ALWAYS make the shoulders narrower than the pattern indicates so that they sit correctly but taking in a jacket is too complicated for me to do on my own.

  34. Does a suit fit and flatter every body type? In terms of mens suits this is what everyone says but I feel like as a woman you can easily look fat in a suit even if its your size and fits… what do I do when I carry some pounds too much and have an apple shape????

  35. Hi Justine! Can you make a video of proper fitting for tailored long coat? The jacket fitting is helpful, but I’m not sure about the hip-bottom silhouette. Is it considered too tight if you can see my shape from behind? I’m considering purchasing a double breasted wool coat. It’s supposed to be a very fitted look, but I don’t want to go overboard. Thanks!

  36. Hello Justine,
    I was watching your video about How To Choose The Perfect Tailored Jacket, and I want to tell you that I have a big problem with buying a good Blazer or any good Jacket ! my problem is my arms! I have full arms 32cm round . will you help me how to choose the right Jacket or blazer. 
    Thank you 

  37. I just ordered some jackets from my favourite online second hand store and found a really well fitting one with your guide. 🙂 excellent. Thank you for your advice.

  38. Hi Justine, This was such a useful video. You always explain everything so well and you're so articulate and well spoken. It's really a pleasure to watch your videos.xo, SS

  39. Hi Justine. I'm glad I found this video. I have such a hard time finding a good suit jacket for me. I am petite but have a big chest. I always look awkward when wearing a suit. Can you do a video on how to look for a suit (jacket and trousers) for petite and curvy women? Thank you very much and more power to you and your chanel.

  40. This has to be one of the most unattractive piece of clothing a woman can wear. Out of all the amazing close you have to chose from and you pick the one thing that men have to wear to even be considered professional, it's so weird .

  41. as someone with an hourglass figure suits are tricky… They are always too narrow on the shoulders and usually when i go up in size the jacket will "grow" bigger faster on the waist than on the shoulders, making them really ill-fitting and in requirement of a lot alterations. The trousers are no better, they are always too tight on the hip and thighs, and way too loose on the waist. Buying clothes that you know need alterations is a bit difficult, because you have to use you're imagination and try to see it how it will be when it actually fits you.

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